The Southern West Coast

Destinations

Today we drove from Hokitika to Haast by way of Hokitika Gorge, a total distance of about 340km.

Hokitia

Hokitika is a major stop along the coastal highway. Lots of restaurants and shops. We went to the Hokitika’s Regent Theatre for some coffee and breakfast to go. The theater is a fully refurbished 1935 art deco movie theatre. If you ever come this way, make sure to stop by the theater. If not for the classic deco, the pie at the cafe are to die for. We had a beef mushroom quiche for the road, and totally regretted that we did not pack a few more.

Hokitika Gorge and Lake Kaniere

The Hokitika Gorge is about 30 minute drive east of the town. We saw a picture of the amazing deep blue gem like water and just had to see it ourselves. Once we got there, it’s an easy short hike down to the gorge. Astonishingly, the water was not at all like the picture. The entire river was a milky torquay grey, like a stream flowing torquay colored clay. Turns out it was a flowing stream of clay, or rock flour. The area had seen some heavy rainfalls in the past few days, and the rain washed the fine powdery rock flour from the glacier into the river. Not exactly what we came to see, but still amazing.

Lake Kaniere and the Dorthy falls are not too far from the gorge. The tranquil mirror lake and the rushing water from fall were nice to see. However, relatively, this is not a must see stop of the West Coast.

Franz Josef

There are two alpine glaciers, located within Westland Tai Poutini National Park, that are accessible by short hikes, Franz Josef Glacier and Fox Glacier. Coming from the north, we stopped at the i-SITE at Franz Josef to get some information first. The trailhead is about a 10-minute drive from there. The trail is rated as easy. Franz Josef Glacial Walk is a geologist’s fantasy land. All the glacial terminology came back to me as we walked up the glacial valley. It was amazing to see the power of the nature, caving out the massive glacial valley and forming all those geological features. It was also shocking to the impact of human activities on such a great landscape.

Bruce Bay and Paringa

Southbound from Franz Josef, we stopped at a beach near Bruce Bay to catch a glimpse of the sunset. As the highway curved inland we saw fog rolled over the hill and quickly covered the small valley. When we stopped to marvel the magical scene, two horses just walked out of the fog towards us. It’s like we just walk right into the magical land of middle-earth.

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The Northern West Coast

With scenery so stunning it takes your breath away and sunsets so impressive even Instagram told us to tone it down. It takes a while to get around the largest region in New Zealand, but the journey is the best bit.

What to see

There are so much to see on the West Coast. Punakaiki Pancake Rocks and Blowholes, Franz Josef Glacier Walk, Fox Glacier, Hokitika Gorge Walk and more. Depending on our pace, we could spend 2-3 days on the West Coast.

Getting there

From Takaka Hill, we followed the Motueka Valley Highway, connected to State Highway 6, then cut through part of Kahurangi National Park before reaching the coastline. We planned to stop at Hokitika, about 370km drive for the day.

Over the mountain

Tapawera

As it was early sprint in New Zealand, we saw some of the most amazing floral and plants along the mountain slopes. On the way, we happened upon Tapawera Armistice Weekend 2018 at Tapawera. An event celebrating the centenary of the 1918 signing of the Armistice in Europe signalling the end of the First World War. We arrived on the last day of the three-day event, with many First World War themed activities and displays. We saw a lot of small planes parked on the grass field outside the town. I wounder whether people fly their own planes here for the event. We stayed only for a few minutes and left when the parade just about to start.

Buller Gorge

Later, we stopped at Berlins Cafe & Bar, located in the scenic Buller Gorge, for a cup of flat white. It’s a nice place to take in the scenery of the valley. Outside the cafe, several rusty Steam Punk sculptures scattered around the yard. The Buller Gorge Swing Bridge seemed nice from the picture, however it is another privately managed attraction and we still had a long drive ahead of us, so we decided to pass it.

By the sea

Inland Pack Track

Once we reached on the coastline, we were in the territory of Paparoa National Park, the third New Zealand national park we visited so far. Before we got to Punakaiki, we went on a short 90-minute hike along the Inland Pack Track for about. The track was really muddy at places, mostly due to the rain in the last few days. We turned back at the river bank as we were not ready to tread the river.

Punakaiki

The Punakaiki Pancake Rocks and Blowholes is one of the geological wounder on our must see list. Actually, the entire New Zealand is one big geological wounder! The geologist inside me was trying to figure out how the rock got into such an interesting formation. According to the information, it is still somewhat an unsolved mystery. The ocean view was unbelievably vast. Standing at the platform, once can almost made out the entire Northern West Coast coastline. Luckily we got here around 18:00, not crowed with tourists. However, it was at the low tide of that day, thus we did not see the blowholes in action.

Motukiekie Beach

We came to Motukiekie Beach to watch the sunset. This is another surprised location we came across. The rock formation protruding out in a distance looked like outline of a Viking ship or dragon boat. The lighting from the setting sun and mist rising from the ocean made them looked mysterious. As the sun was setting we did not spend enough time here. Next time!

Hokitika

The Cabin on the Beach is a nice little cozy Airbnb in Hokitika. The beach is only steps away from the cabin. When we arrived, the sun just settle below the horizon and the crescent moon hung in the deep blue sky. What a nice place to end the day and rest our feet.

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